250-250-300-350-350 g colour no 05, light grey
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
Colour no 01, off white
Colour no 13, denim blue
Colour no 20, dark blue
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. NOTE: It is important that the knitting tension is correct vertically to get the right shape on the round yoke.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.
DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.
YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-92-100-108 sts on a short circular needle size 3 mm with dark blue. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-3-4-4-5 cm (= neck edge). Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm. K 1 round while at the same time dec 6-4-2-2-3 sts evenly = 78-84-90-98-105 sts. Then work an elevation at the back in stocking st as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 32 sts back. Continue to work 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48-48-48-64-64 sts have been worked, turn and K until mid back again. Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size (= 13-14-15-14-15 repetitions of 6-6-6-7-7 sts). REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION and switch to a longer circular needle when there are enough sts. When A.1 has been worked, there are 208-224-240-252-270 sts on needle. Work 0-1-2-0-1 cm with light grey. Piece now measures approx. 14-15-16-17-18 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck). Finish piece in stocking st with light grey. First K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-4-12-10 sts evenly = 212-228-244-264-280 sts. Work next round as follows: Work 31-33-35-37-39 sts, slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row, work 62-66-70-74-78 sts (= front piece), slip the next 44-48-52-58-62 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 6 new sts on row and work 31-33-35-37-39 sts.
BODY:
= 136-144-152-160-168 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue in the round in stocking st for 23-26-29-32-35 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. On next round, inc 12-12-12-16-16 sts evenly = 148-156-164-176-184 sts. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Then LOOSELY cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Entire jumper now measures approx. 40-44-48-52-56 cm mid front (measured without rib in the neck).
SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm, pick in addition up 1 st in each of the 6 sts cast on in the side of body (insert 1 marker in the middle of these new sts = mid under sleeve) = 50-54-58-64-68 sts on row. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with light grey. When sleeve measures 2 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 3-2½-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 7-9-10-13-14 times = 36-36-38-38-40 sts. When sleeve measures 22-26-30-33-37 cm, inc 4-4-6-6-8 sts evenly = 40-40-44-44-48 sts. Switch to double pointed needle size 3 mm and work rib in the round = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm, then LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.
FOR THE WHOLE SET YOU WILL NEED:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14) cm
(50) 100-100-100-100 (100) g colour 43, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – for the cord.
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SHORTS:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Materials:
BABYMERINO from Garnstudio
(50) 50-50-50-50 (100) g colour 43, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for the rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – for the cord.
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SLIPPERS:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 43light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Shorts: See diagram A.1.
Slippers: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
INCREASE TIP (for the shorts):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased).
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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SHORTS:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. Cast on (80) 96-96-112-112 (128) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Work rib from mid back as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, finish with purl 2 and knit 1.
When the rib measures (2) 2-2-3-3 (3) cm work a row of holes for the cord on the next round as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
Work 1 round of rib knit 2 /purl 2.
Then work an elevation in the rib at the back as follows: Work (7) 9-9-9-9 (9) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (14) 18-18-18-18 (18) stitches back, turn, tighten the strand, work (20) 24-24-24-26 (26) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (26) 30-30-30-34 (34) stitches back, turn, tighten the strand, work (32) 36-36-36-42 (42) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (38) 42-42-42-50 (50) stitches back.
Continue like this, i.e. work (6) 6-6-6-8 (8) more stitches each time the piece is turned until you have worked over a total of (62) 66-66-66-82 (82) stitches. Turn, tighten the strand, then continue with rib in the round over all stitches again.
When the piece measures (4) 4-5-5-5 (5) cm mid front, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Knit 1 round and decrease (10) 14-10-22-14 (26) stitches evenly on round = (70) 82-86-90-98 (102) stitches. On the next round insert 1 marker thread in each side of the piece as follows: Work (17) 20-21-22-24 (25) stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above, insert 1 marker thread (= half the back piece), work (35) 41-43-45-49 (51) stitches garter stitch, insert 1 marker thread (= front piece), work (18) 21-22-23-25 (26) stitches garter stitch (= half the back piece). The piece is now continue in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both the marker threads in the sides (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every cm a total of (6) 7-8-11-11 (14) times, then increase 2 stitches evenly on next round = (96) 112-120-136-144 (160) stitches. When the piece measures (10) 12-14-16-17 (19) cm, adjust so that the last row was purled, work pattern A.1 over all stitches (= a total of (12) 14-15-17-18 (20) times in width). When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, work garter stitch to finished length.
When the piece measures (15) 17-19-21-22 (24) cm, cast off stitches for the legs as follows: Cast off the first (41) 49-53-61-63 (71) stitches, work (14) 14-14-14-18 (18) stitches, cast off the last (41) 49-53-61-63 (71) stitches = (14) 14-14-14-18 (18) stitches left for gusset. Cut the strand. Now continue working back and forth. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, for approx. (2) 2-2-3-4 (5) cm. Cast off. Sew these ridges to the cast off edge on the back piece, in the middle, in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.
CORD:
Crochet a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 50-60 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain. Cut and fasten the strand. Thread the cord in and out through the row of holes (start and finish mid front).
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SLIPPER:
The slipper is worked back and forth with double pointed needles from mid back, top down, i.e. the leg is worked first, then the foot.
Cast on (36) 38-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work the next row as follows from the right side: Work (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch, A.3 (= 8 stitches) in total (4) 4-5-5-6 (6-7) times in width and finish with (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, work A.2 as follows: Knit (0) 1-0-0-0-(0-0) stitches, A.2 over the next (36) 36-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches and finish with knit (0) 1-0-0-0-(0-0) stitches (the cord is thread through this row of holes later). When A.2 has been completed in height, work 2 RIDGES – see description above and decrease (6) 8-6-6-6- (10-14) stitches evenly on the last row from the right side = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) stitches. Cut the strand.
Now place the first (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches and the last (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches on separate threads. The piece is now worked in garter stitch to finished length. Work (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm, over the middle (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches (= mid top of slipper), cut the strand.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece back onto the double pointed needles, knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the side of the middle piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches on the needle (= front), knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the other side of the middle piece and work the stitches from the other thread back onto the double pointed needles = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) stitches on needle. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work a total of (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm garter stitch over all the stitches, AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked approx. (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm, insert 1 marker (22) 24-27-30-32 (37-42) stitches along the row (= middle of slipper). Now decrease every 2nd row to finished length as follows:
Knit 1 stitch, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit together the next 4 stitches 2 and 2 (= 2 stitches decreased), knit until there are 3 stitches left, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 stitch (= 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row) = approx. (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) stitches.
Cast off and sew the seam under the foot and up along mid back in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Work 1 more slipper in the same way.
CORD:
Crochet a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 30-40 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand.
Thread the cord in and out of the row of holes on the slipper (start and finish mid front).
Fits head size:
approx. (28/32) 34/38 - 40/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm
Materials:
(50) 50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 43, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Loosely cast on (72) 80-96-104 (112-120) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work 4 RIDGES – see description above. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm, knit and decrease 8 stitches evenly on round = (64) 72-88-96 (104-112) stitches. Then work pattern in the round according to A.1 (= a total of (8) 9-11-12 (13-14) times in width). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height the piece measures approx. 7 cm. Continue working in garter stitch. When the piece measures (10) 11-12-14 (14-15) cm – adjust so that the next round is a knitted round, decrease as follows: Decrease (7) 8-8-8 (8-10) stitches evenly on every 2nd round (i.e. every knitted round), a total of (6) 6-6-6 (7-7) times = (22) 24-40-48 (48-42) stitches. On the next knitted round, knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = (11) 12-20-24 (24-21) stitches. Purl 1 round and repeat the decrease on the next knitted round in sizes 3/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years (do not decrease any more stitches in the other sizes) = (11) 12-10-12 (12-11) stitches. Pull a double strand through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten well. The hat measures approx. (13) 14-15-17 (18-19) cm in total.
FOR THE WHOLE SET YOU WILL NEED:
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
(150) 150-150-200-200 (200-250) g colour 43, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – for edges and cord.
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JACKET:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g colour 43, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – for edges and cord.
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SLIPPERS:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 43, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Jacket: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.
Slippers: See diagrams A.3 and A.4.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
DECREASE TIP (for jacket):
Decrease inside the 1 band stitch in garter stitch. All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 1 band stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before the 1 band stitch: Knit 2 together.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The body is worked first, then stitches are cast on for sleeves and the front and back pieces are finished separately.
BODY:
Cast on (111) 125-145-157-173 (181-205) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and BabyMerino. Work as follows from the right side: Work (3) 2-4-2-2 (2-2) stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above – (= band), work A.1 (= 8 stitches) over the next (104) 120-136-152-168 (176-200) stitches (= (13) 15-17-19-21 (22-25) times in width), work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with (3) 2-4-2-2 (2-2) stitches garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the last row in A.1 adjust the number of stitches to (112) 124-146-158-172 (182-204) stitches.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue in garter stitch to finished length. The piece measures approx. (10) 12-16-16-16 (19-19) cm.
Insert 1 marker (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) stitches in from each side. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards, they mark the front and back pieces = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches on back piece.
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE FOR NECK INSIDE 1 BAND STITCH IN EACH SIDE OF THE PIECE AT THE SAME TIME AS THE PIECE IS DIVIDED AND STITCHES ARE CAST ON FOR SLEEVES.
DECREASE MID FRONT AS FOLLOWS:
When the piece measures (10) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside the 1 band stitch in each side of the piece (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) times, then every 4th row a total of 2 times.
THE PIECE IS NOW DIVIDED AND STITCHES ARE CAST ON FOR THE SLEEVES AS FOLLOWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
When the piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm, divide the piece at the 2 markers and the front and back pieces are finished separately. Adjust so that the next row is from the right side. Now work over all the stitches as far as the first marker (= right front piece). Place the remaining stitches on a thread.
Cast on new stitches at the end of each row from the right side (= towards the side) for the sleeve as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time. When all the stitches are cast on for the sleeve and the decreases to neck are finished, there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches on the needle for shoulder/sleeve. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm. Cast off.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work over the last stitches which were placed on the thread, as far as the marker in the side.
Work as for the right front piece, but in reverse. In other words, cast on stitches for the shoulder/sleeve at the end of each row from the wrong side. Continue to decrease inside the 1 band stitch at the end of each row from the right side as before (towards neck).
BACK PIECE:
= (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of each row in each side of the piece for the sleeves as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) stitches.
When the piece measures (19) 23-27-29-31 (35-39) cm cast off the middle (16) 16-18-18-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and each shoulder/sleeve is finished separately = (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches left on each shoulder/sleeve. Work until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm, adjust to match the front pieces. Cast off. Work the other shoulder/sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seams on top of sleeve with grafting stitches from the right side. Sew the seams under the sleeves edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.
CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino around the whole jacket opening (i.e. work from the right front piece, up along the jacket opening, around the neck and down the opening to the cast on edge on the left front piece) as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 slip stitch in the cast on edge on the right front piece, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 2 stitches/rows, 1 double crochet in the next stitch/row *, work from *-* to the corner where the decreases for neck started. Work the cord as follows: 1 double crochet in the tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in the tip of the front piece again, continue the crochet edge around the jacket and neck to the tip on the left front piece, work cord as on the right front piece, continue working down the left front piece and finish with 1 slip stitch in the cast on edge.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch on the previous row, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* (make sure you work over the cords so the cords lie underneath), finish with 1 slip stitch in the last stitch.
Work rows 1 and 2 in the same way around the bottom of both sleeves (the rounds start with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch).
Work 2 loose cords: Work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut the strand and work 1 more cord in the same way. Sew 1 cord to the inside of the right side in the side and 1 cord on the outside of the left side in the side. Make sure the two cords are at the same height on each side.
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SLIPPER:
The slipper is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid back, top down; i.e. you first work the leg then the foot.
Cast on (36) 38-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work A.3 (= 2 stitches) over all stitches. When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch, A.4 (= 8 stitches) a total of (4) 4-5-5-6 (6-7) times in width and finish with (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.4 has been completed 1 time in height continue with A.3 as follows: Knit (0) 1-0-0-0-(0-0) stitches, A.3 over the next (36) 36-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches and finish by knitting (0) 1-0-0-0-(0-0) stitches (the cord is later thread through this row of holes). When A.3 has been completed in height, work 2 RIDGES – see description above and decrease (6) 8-6-6-6- (10-14) stitches evenly on the last row from the right side = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) stitches. Cut the strand.
Now place the first (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches and the last (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches on two separate threads. The piece is now worked in garter stitch to finished length. Work (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm, over the middle (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches (= mid top of slipper), cut the strand.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the stitches from the one thread in the one side back onto the double pointed needles, knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the side of the middle piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches on the needle (= front), knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the other side of the middle piece and work the stitches from the other thread back onto the double pointed needles = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) stitches on the needles. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work a total of (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm garter stitch over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked approx. (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm, insert 1 marker (22) 24-27-30-32 (37-42) stitches in (= middle of slipper). Now decrease every 2nd row to finished length as follows:
Knit 1 stitch, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit together the next 4 stitches, 2 and 2 (= 2 stitches decreased), knit until there are 3 stitches left, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 stitch (= 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row) = approx. (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) stitches.
Cast off and sew the seam under the foot and up mid back in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Work 1 more slipper in the same way.
CORD:
Work a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 30-40 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand.
Thread the cord in and out of the row of holes on the slipper (start and finish mid front of slipper).
HEAD BAND:
Size: One-size
Width: approx. 11 cm
Circumference: approx. 54 cm
Materials:
100 g colour 06, olive
NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Width: approx. 17 cm
150 g colour 06, olive
Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group E)” - see link below.
POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm – or size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Head band: See diagram A.1.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.2.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
SHORT ROWS:
Work short rows in each side of neck warmer as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the first 6 stitches in garter stitch, turn piece.
ROW 2: (= wrong side): Tighten yarn and knit the 6 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 3: Work over all stitches.
ROW 4: Work the first 6 stitches in garter stitch, turn piece.
ROW 5: Tighten yarn and knit the 6 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 6: Work over all stitches.
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HEAD BAND:
Work piece back and forth on needle. Cast on 17 stitches on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work next row as follows from right side: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation. A.1 (= 9 stitches), 4 stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue with A.1 with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 54 cm - finish with last row in A.1. Loosely cast off all stitches. Sew head band together mid back with grafting/kitchener stitches.
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NECK WARMER:
Work piece back and forth on needle. Cast on 24 stitches on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work next row as follows from right side: 6 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation. A.2 (= 12 stitches), 6 stitches in garter stitch. Work A.2 with 6 stitches in garter stitch in each side and work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above - on every 6 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 1 marker at the end of next row from right side when piece measures 22 cm (sew neck warmer together here later). Continue until piece measures approx. 76 cm in the middle of neck warmer - finish with last row in A.2, loosely cast off all stitches.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew cast-off edge between cast-on edge and marker inserted in the side to form a tip at the front - sew neatly edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Equivalent to: 50/56-62/68-74/78 (86/92-98/104-110/116) cm
250-300-350 (400-450-500) g colour no 13, navy blue
50- 50- 50 ( 50- 50- 50) g colour no 16, green
50- 50- 50 ( 50- 50- 50) g colour no 51, light orange
50- 50- 50 ( 50- 50- 50) g colour no 12, red
Knitting tension: 21 stitches x 28 rows with needle size 4 mm and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm. Remember needle size is only a guide!
Apple: 1 square = 1 stitch x 1 row. Red apple: Has a green stem and light orange bottom. Light orange apple: Has a green stem and red bottom. Green apple: Has a red stem and light orange bottom.
Moss stitch: Row 1: Knit 1, purl 1. Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat row 2 upwards.
Ridge/Garter stitch (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
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Front piece: Work back and forth with circular needle. Cast on 62-68-74 (82-90-98) stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side for seam) with circular needle size 3 mm and green. Work ridges; 2 green, 2 red, 2 yellow. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm, navy blue and work the square pattern as follows: 20-22-18 (20-22-24) stitches stocking stitch, 20-22-18 (20-22-24) stitches moss stitch, 20-22-18 (20-22-24) stitches stocking stitch 0-0-18 (20-22-24) stitches moss stitch.
After 8.5-9.5-8 (8.25-9-9.75) cm of square pattern, work stocking stitch over moss stitch and moss stitch over stocking stitch for 8.5-9.5-8 (8.25-9-9.75) cm. Continue to change the square pattern in this way to finished length = 3-3-4 (4-4-4) squares in height. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 24-24-27 (27-30-32) cm, cast off 6 stitches for neck-split mid front. When the split measures 5-6-7 (8-9-10) cm, continue to cast off for neck every 2nd row: 3-3-3 (3-5-7) stitches x 1, 3 stitches x 1, 2 stitches x 1, 1 stitch x 2. Cast off when piece measures approx. 33-35-39 (41-45-48) cm (adjust to after a complete square in height). Now embroider the apples to the front piece in the stocking stitch squares with grafting stitches - see square diagram for the position and colour of the apples (see description of apples above). The apples should be in middle of each stocking stitch square.
Back piece: Cast on and work as for front piece but first cast off for neck when piece measures 31-33-37 (39-43-46) cm. Cast off the middle 20-20-22 (22-26-30) stitches and then continue every 2nd row: 2 stitches x 1. Cast off as for front when piece measures 33-35-39 (41-45-48) cm.
Right Sleeve: Cast on 38-40-42 (44-44-48) stitches with needle size 3 mm and green. Work ridges back and forth on needle; 2 green, 2 red, 2 yellow. Change to needle size 3.5 mm, navy blue and work square pattern as follows: 9-9-12 (12-11-12) stitches moss stitch, 20-22-18 (20-22-24) stitches stocking stitch, 9-9-12 (12-11-12) stitches moss stitch.
At the same time, after the ridges increase in each side: 1 stitch x 3-4-5 (7-13-13) in Sizes 0/3 + 12/18 months: Every 9th row, Size 6/9 months: Every 10th row, Size 2 years: Every 7th row, Size 3/4 years: Alternately every 4th and 5th row, Size 5/6 years: Every 5th row = 44-48-52 (58-70-74) stitches - the increased stitches are worked into the square pattern as you go. Cast off when piece measures 13-17-19 (20-24-27) cm. Embroider a red apple on the first row of squares in the stocking stitch square mid top of sleeve with grafting stitches (see description of apples above) - the apple is worked in middle of square.
Left sleeve: Cast on and work as for right but the first row of square pattern is worked as follows: 11-11-12 (12-11-12) stitches stocking stitch, 15-17-18 (20-22-24) stitches moss stitch, 11-11-12 (12-11-12) stitches stocking stitch.
Embroider a green apple on the second row of squares in the stocking stitch square mid top of sleeve with grafting stitches (see description of apples above) - the apple is worked in middle of squar
Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve and side seams in one go. Knit up approx. 12-24 stitches along the left side of the split with needle size 3 mm and navy blue and work rib for 2 cm, cast off. Repeat along the right side of the split but after 0.5 cm work 2-2-2 (2-2-3) buttonholes - cast off 2 stitches and cast on 2 new stitches above the cast off stitches on the next row, cast off. Knit up approx. 78-84 stitches around the neck with needle size 3 mm and navy blue. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6-8 cm, then work 2 ridges and cast off. Sew on buttons.
Sizes: 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116)
150-200 (200-200-250) g colour 16, red
50-50 (100-100-100) g colour 02, off white
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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DRESS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. You first work a belt with lining and pattern, then the skirt is worked downwards. You work a lining at bottom of skirt with pattern. The braces are worked back and forth (sideways) and sewn on to finish.
LINING (for belt):
Cast on 108-120 (132-144-156) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and red. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 10 cm, work the next round as follows: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= folding edge). The yarn overs are not worked twisted on the next round - there will be holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
BELT:
Then work A.1 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches (= 9-10 (11-12-13) times in width). When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, the belt measures approx. 11 cm and the piece a total of 22 cm (including lining).
SKIRT:
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Work with red as follows: * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round = 216-240 (264-288-312) stitches. The yarn overs are not worked twisted on the next round - there will be holes.
Work A.2 (= 8 stitches) over all stitches (= 27-30 (33-36-39) times in width).
When the skirt measures 14-17 (20-23-27) cm and the piece a total of 36-39 (42-45-49) cm (including lining) - there is now approx. 8 cm left to finished length (you can continue to desired length) - work A.3 over all stitches (= 18-20 (22-24-26) times in width). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, the skirt measures approx. 22-25 (28-31-35) cm and the piece a total of 44-47 (50-53-57) cm (including lining).
LINING (bottom edge):
Work with off white as follows: * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= folding edge). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! The yarn overs are not worked twisted on next round, there will be holes. Work A.4 (= 12 stitches) over all stitches (= 18-20 (22-24-26) times in width). When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height, continue working in red. Work until the lining measures 8 cm from the folding edge, and then cast off. The piece measures a total of approx. 52-55 (58-61-65) cm (including both linings).
ASSEMBLY:
Fold lining at the top of the dress down on the wrong side of the belt and sew down with red. Do the same at the bottom of the skirt.
BRACES:
The braces measure approx. 27-28 (30-32-35) cm in length when finished; there is 5 cm extra in each side so that the braces can be adjusted as the child grows. You can cast on more/fewer stitches if you would like longer/shorter braces (the number of stitches must be divisible by 4 + 2).
Cast on 66-70 (74-78-86) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 3 mm and red. The braces are worked back and forth in stocking stitch. Work 6 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side of the piece.
On the next row from the right side work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= folding edge). Then work A.5 (= 4 stitches) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side (edge stitches are worked in same colour as the first/last stitch in A.5, first row worked from the wrong side – do not work the yarn overs twisted). When A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, work a folding edge in red from the right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work approx. 7 rows with red (do not work the yarn overs twisted), fold the lining down and make sure that it does not tighten the brace; work more rows if necessary. Cast off. Sew cast-on edge to cast-off edge in outermost loop of outermost stitch. Work 1 more brace.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the braces onto lining at top (i.e. on wrong side of belt) with neat stitches approx. 5 cm down on each side, with approx. 8-8 (9-10-10) cm between each braces mid front and mid back.
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